Journey through the people, cities and ideas that shaped Kiribati, from the Gilbertese chiefdoms to a nation of atolls spread across three island groups.
Follow the unimwane elders, whalers and missionaries, the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony, the Battle of Tarawa, independence and rising seas.
Explore 7 historical periods, chiefs, colonial administrators and presidents, and 48 chapters of territorial change.
Uea chiefs, British, Japanese and American administrators and presidents (beretitenti), who head both state and government.
A Journey Through the Ages
Kiribati: explore the uea and unimwane chiefdoms, the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony, the Battle of Tarawa, independence in 1979 and the climate-threatened modern republic through 252 events across seven historical periods.
1,000 BCE – 1764
Austronesian voyagers settled the Gilbert Islands at a disputed date between 3000 BCE and 1300 CE, later joined by Samoan, Tongan and Fijian arrivals. Island communities organised around the maneaba and elders (unimane) until Byron passed the chain in the 1760s.
1765 – 1891
Byron, Gilbert, whalers and traders reached the islands from the 1760s, bringing disease, violence and upheaval. American and London missionaries arrived from 1857 and Catholic missionaries in 1888, reshaping island religion and preparing the ground for British protection, which was declared in 1892 after years of trader disputes.
1892 – 1940
Britain declared a protectorate over the Gilberts in 1892 and the Ellice Islands, annexed Banaba for phosphate in 1900, and created the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony in 1916. Fanning, Christmas Island and the Phoenix Islands were added before 1941.
1941 – 1945
Japan seized part of the colony after December 1941 and the Allied attack on Tarawa and Makin began on 20 November 1943. The Battle of Tarawa left Betio devastated and, with the Makin operation, opened the Allied advance across the central Pacific; casualty figures remain contested.
1946 – 1979
Banabans were moved to Rabi from 1945, the capital returned to Tarawa, phosphate mining continued on Banaba, and nuclear tests were held around Kiritimati in 1957 and 1962. The Ellice Islands separated in 1975 and Kiribati became independent on 12 July 1979.
1980 – 2002
Ieremia Tabai, Teatao Teannaki and Teburoro Tito led the new republic, which moved the date line east in 1995 and welcomed the new millennium on Caroline Island. Population grew steadily from 63,883 in 1985 to 84,494 in 2000, and South Tarawa became crowded.
2003 – present
Anote Tong and Taneti Maamau led Kiribati as sea-level concerns grew, with the Phoenix Islands Protected Area created in 2008 and listed by UNESCO in 2010. The country switched recognition to China in 2019 and the 2024 census counted 119,438 people.
From the Micronesian settlers and the Tungaru chiefdoms to the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony, the Battle of Tarawa, independence in 1979 and Kiribati today, 1000 BCE – Today
From the first Micronesian settlers of the Gilbert chain and the island communities and kin groups of the maneaba, through Polynesian and Fijian arrivals, Byron, Gilbert and Marshall, the whalers, the missions and the British protectorate of 1892, the annexation of Banaba for phosphate, the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony of 1916 with the Line and Phoenix Islands added, the Japanese seizure of 1941 and the Battle of Tarawa of 1943, the resettlement of the Banabans on Rabi, the nuclear tests at Kiritimati, the separation of the Ellice Islands as Tuvalu, independence on 12 July 1979, the exclusive economic zone, the Phoenix Islands Protected Area and the dateline of 1995, to the Republic of Kiribati today. See how the lands of Kiribati changed.
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Austronesian voyagers settled the Gilbert Islands at a disputed date between 3000 BCE and 1300 CE, later joined by Samoan, Tongan and Fijian arrivals. Island communities organised around the maneaba and elders (unimane) until Byron passed the chain in the 1760s.
Byron, Gilbert, whalers and traders reached the islands from the 1760s, bringing disease, violence and upheaval. American and London missionaries arrived from 1857 and Catholic missionaries in 1888, reshaping island religion and preparing the ground for British protection, which was declared in 1892 after years of trader disputes.
Britain declared a protectorate over the Gilberts in 1892 and the Ellice Islands, annexed Banaba for phosphate in 1900, and created the Gilbert and Ellice Islands Colony in 1916. Fanning, Christmas Island and the Phoenix Islands were added before 1941.
Japan seized part of the colony after December 1941 and the Allied attack on Tarawa and Makin began on 20 November 1943. The Battle of Tarawa left Betio devastated and, with the Makin operation, opened the Allied advance across the central Pacific; casualty figures remain contested.
Banabans were moved to Rabi from 1945, the capital returned to Tarawa, phosphate mining continued on Banaba, and nuclear tests were held around Kiritimati in 1957 and 1962. The Ellice Islands separated in 1975 and Kiribati became independent on 12 July 1979.
Ieremia Tabai, Teatao Teannaki and Teburoro Tito led the new republic, which moved the date line east in 1995 and welcomed the new millennium on Caroline Island. Population grew steadily from 63,883 in 1985 to 84,494 in 2000, and South Tarawa became crowded.
Anote Tong and Taneti Maamau led Kiribati as sea-level concerns grew, with the Phoenix Islands Protected Area created in 2008 and listed by UNESCO in 2010. The country switched recognition to China in 2019 and the 2024 census counted 119,438 people.
Events, leadership records, facts and map chapters retain the supplied references and uncertainty notes.
Kiribati lies on 33 atolls and islands in the Gilbert, Phoenix and Line groups, spread across more than three million square kilometres of ocean, so the map shows the groups and surrounding colonial claims at approximate extents. Map notes distinguish territorial claims, political authority and effective control, and explain population estimates. Chapter references retain the supplied sources and qualifications.
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Explore 70 facts from the supplied Kiribati research. References and qualifications accompany each fact.
Did you know that Wikipedia says the Gilbert Islands may have been inhabited for three or four millennia, and that later Samoan and Tongan invasions added Polynesian elements, while Fijian invasions added Melanesian ones, to I-Kiribati society.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Wikipedia says Nikunau has been inhabited for at least 2,000 years, and that around the 16th century the island was important to the development of the mwaneaba, the I-Kiribati meeting house system.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that in 1606 the Spanish expedition of Pedro Fernandes de Queiros sighted Butaritari and Makin, and named them the Buen Viaje Islands, a Spanish name meaning the Good Voyage Islands.
Did you know that Wikipedia records 2 July 1765 as the day Commodore John Byron and the crew of HMS Dolphin became the first recorded British visitors to Nikunau, which European maps then called Byron Island for a while.
Did you know that on Christmas Eve 1777 Captain James Cook sighted and anchored at the island now called Kiritimati during his third voyage.
Did you know that Thomas Gilbert and John Marshall passed close to several of the islands in 1788 without landing, and that in 1820 Adam Johann von Krusenstern named them the Gilbert Islands after Gilbert.
Did you know that Edmund Fanning sighted Teraina on 12 June 1798 and named it Washington Island after George Washington, though he did not land, and that Tabuaeran, Fanning Island, was sighted a day earlier.
Did you know that Wikipedia describes whaling at the equator, called On-the-Line, as common in the Gilbert Islands from 1825 into the 1860s, a trade that brought whalers, traders, and disease to the islands.
Did you know that when Europeans first found Malden Island in 1825 it had no inhabitants, yet archaeologists have catalogued 21 sites there, including temple platforms, house sites, and graves resembling pre-contact Tonga.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Hiram Bingham II, who reached the Gilbert Islands at the end of 1857, was the first to translate the Bible into Gilbertese and also wrote hymn books and dictionaries in the language.
Did you know that Robert Louis Stevenson's party spent about two months on Abemama in 1889, where he called the ruler Binoka, also known as Tembinok', the last tyrant.
Did you know that Wikipedia's Blackbirding article says about 1,200 Gilbert Islanders were recruited for coffee plantations in Mexico and Guatemala in three shiploads, and that only about 250 of them survived.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that on 27 May 1892 Captain Edward Davis of HMS Royalist declared the Gilbert Islands a British Protectorate, and that the neighbouring Ellice Islands became a protectorate later the same year.
Did you know that Albert Ellis, working in Sydney in 1900, noticed that a large rock from Nauru used as a doorstop was rich in phosphate, then visited Nauru and Banaba to confirm the deposits.
Did you know that Wikipedia says the Banaban agreement gave the phosphate company exclusive mining rights for 999 years in return for a payment of 50 pounds a year, terms later changed to add royalties.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that phosphate from Banaba reportedly provided about half of the Gilbert and Ellice colony's tax revenue, and that its headquarters sat on Ocean Island from 1908 until the British evacuation in 1942.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that in September 1914 the German light cruiser SMS Nurnberg visited Fanning Island, and a landing force put the cable station out of action, leaving it severely damaged.
Did you know that the Gilbert and Ellice Islands became a Crown colony on 12 January 1916, after more than two decades as a protectorate, and that Ocean Island was added to the colony the same year.
Did you know that Arthur Grimble, the colonial officer and author of A Pattern of Islands, designed the colony's coat of arms granted in May 1937, whose badge design was later retained for the flag of Kiribati.
Did you know that on 8 June 1937 a National Geographic Society expedition watched a total solar eclipse from Kanton, and that the American party claimed the island for the United States, causing a standoff with a British warship.
Did you know that according to TIGHAR, a research group, Amelia Earhart and Fred Noonan may have landed on Nikumaroro after the 1937 disappearance, though no conclusive evidence has been found and the official finding is that the plane crashed at sea.
Did you know that in December 1938 British officials brought 20 Gilbertese settlers to Nikumaroro under the Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme, and that by June 1939 the island had 58 I-Kiribati residents, 26 of them children.
Did you know that Japanese forces occupied the Gilbert Islands on 9 and 10 December 1941, landing troops on Tarawa and Makin only days after Pearl Harbor, as part of a plan to protect Japan's southeastern flank.
Did you know that Carlson's 2nd Raider Battalion raided Makin on 17 and 18 August 1942 using two submarines, and that nine Marines left behind were captured and later executed on Kwajalein Atoll.
Did you know that Betio, where the Battle of Tarawa was fought, covers only about 118 hectares, roughly 290 acres, and that the fighting from 20 to 23 November 1943 lasted around 76 hours.
Did you know that planners expected about five feet of water over the reef at Tarawa, but the tide failed to rise as planned, leaving about three feet, too shallow for the Higgins boats, which have a four foot draft.
Did you know that Wikipedia says that of the 3,636 Japanese garrison members on Betio only one officer and sixteen enlisted men survived, as did 129 of about 1,200 Korean labourers, though figures vary between sources.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that on 21 November 1943 the submarine USS Nautilus landed 78 US Marine scouts on Abemama, who defeated the Japanese garrison there with fire support from the submarine itself.
Did you know that on 20 August 1945 Japanese troops on Banaba killed all but one of roughly 200 remaining Banabans, and that Kabunare Koura, the lone survivor, later became the key witness to the massacre.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that on 15 December 1945 the first group of 703 Banabans, including 318 children, arrived on Rabi Island in Fiji aboard the vessel Triona, beginning a resettlement that left Banaba almost empty.
Did you know that phosphate earnings funded a sovereign wealth fund set up in 1956, which later became the Revenue Equalization Reserve Fund that Wikipedia lists at about US$400 million in 2008.
Did you know that Grapple X, on 8 November 1957, was the first British hydrogen bomb dropped off Kiritimati's southern tip, with a yield of 1.8 megatonnes that damaged buildings and helicopters on the island.
Did you know that in 1962 the United States used Kiritimati for Operation Dominic, and Wikipedia says islanders were usually not evacuated for the tests, while the health effects remain disputed.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that in the 1974 referendum on whether the Ellice Islands should separate, 3,799 Ellice Islanders voted for separation and 293 voted against, with 40 spoilt papers.
Did you know that the Ellice Islands became a separate British dependency on 1 October 1975, with the separation completed on 1 January 1976, and that the Ellice Islands later became Tuvalu.
Did you know that in Tito v Waddell (No 2) in 1977, the English High Court held that no fiduciary duties were owed over phosphate mining on Banaba, and that damages for failing to replant would be only nominal.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Ieremia Tabai was elected Chief Minister in February or March 1978 at roughly the age of 27 or 28 and, on 12 July 1979, became the first President of independent Kiribati.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kiribati became independent on 12 July 1979, and the flag, with its gold frigatebird over a rising sun, was first raised at the independence celebrations in Tarawa on that day.
Did you know that under the 1979 Treaty of Tarawa the United States gave up its claims to 14 Line and Phoenix islands, though Baker and Howland remain US territories and are not part of Kiribati.
Did you know that Wikipedia says phosphate deposits on Banaba were exhausted in 1979, after which per capita GDP in Kiribati more than halved between 1979 and 1981.
Did you know that Kiritimati's population was only about 2,000 in 1989 but reached 7,369 at the 2020 census, as people moved there from the more crowded atolls of the Gilbert Islands.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that on 31 December 1994 Kiribati removed a day from its calendar, going from Friday 30 December straight to Sunday 1 January 1995, so that the International Date Line no longer split the country.
Did you know that in August 1997 Kiribati renamed Caroline Island as Millennium Island, which at about 5:43 a.m. on 1 January 2000 became the first land to see the new year's sunrise, a claim other nations disputed.
Did you know that the uninhabited islets Tebua Tarawa and Abanuea disappeared beneath the sea in 1999, an event that Wikipedia lists among the signs of Kiribati's vulnerability to sea-level rise.
Did you know that the Phoenix Islands Protected Area was created in January 2008 and, covering 408,250 square kilometres, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.
Did you know that in June 2008 President Anote Tong said Kiribati had reached the point of no return, and that in April 2013 he began urging citizens to migrate elsewhere.
Did you know that in 2014 Kiribati bought about 20 square kilometres of land on Vanua Levu in Fiji, a purchase President Anote Tong described as an absolute necessity if the islands were ever submerged.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that weightlifter David Katoatau won gold in 2014 in Glasgow, Kiribati's first Commonwealth Games medal, and later danced at the 2016 Rio Olympics to draw attention to climate change.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kiribati established ties with Taiwan in November 2003, and that in September 2019 President Taneti Maamau switched recognition to Beijing, after which 13 MPs left his party in protest.
Did you know that the remains of 30 US soldiers and Marines were discovered on Betio in March 2019, and that unexploded shells from the Battle of Tarawa are still scattered across the island and its reef.
Did you know that Kiribati withdrew from the Pacific Islands Forum on 9 July 2022 during a dispute over leadership, and rejoined on 24 February 2023 after an official apology from the Forum chair.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that in the 25 October 2024 election Taneti Maamau won 55.05 percent of the vote against Kaotitaake Kokoria's 42.03 percent, and was sworn in for another term on 1 November 2024.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kiribati is pronounced Kiribass, because the letters ti in Gilbertese are sounded like an s, and that the name is the local adaptation of the European name Gilberts.
Did you know that Wikipedia says the islands of Kiribati straddle both the equator and the 180th meridian, so the country spans the northern, southern, eastern, and western hemispheres.
Did you know that Kiribati has 32 atolls and one raised coral island, Banaba, of which 21 are inhabited, with about 811 square kilometres of land scattered across roughly 3.4 million square kilometres of ocean.
Did you know that Kiritimati, with about 312 square kilometres of land, is often cited as the world's largest atoll by land area, though Wikipedia notes that Lifou and Rennell are larger but lack lagoons.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kiritimati keeps the world's most advanced time zone, UTC+14, so it is among the first inhabited places to see New Year's Day, and lies about 232 kilometres north of the equator.
Did you know that the Phoenix Islands Protected Area holds about 800 known species, including roughly 200 coral species and 500 fish species, and at least 14 seamounts thought to be extinct volcanoes.
Did you know that a maneaba is called the heart of any Kiribati community, built with coral slabs, a coconut wood roof tied with coconut string and thatched with pandanus, and that parliament is called the Maneaba ni Maungatabu.
Did you know that the Gilbertese alphabet has just 13 base letters, with no C or D, that the letter B stands for a p sound, and that the usual word order is verb, object, subject.
Did you know that Wikipedia describes traditional I-Kiribati duels fought in armour of thickly woven coconut fibre, with helmets made from blowfish remains and swords with serrated edges set with shark teeth.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kiribati dance stresses outstretched arms and sudden bird-like head movements, which the frigatebird on the national flag refers to, and that smiling while dancing is considered inappropriate.
Did you know that the sun on the Kiribati flag has 17 rays, which represent the 16 Gilbert Islands and Banaba, while three white wavy stripes stand for the Gilbert, Phoenix, and Line Islands.
Did you know that Betio, the largest township of South Tarawa, had a population of 17,356 in 2015 on just 1.54 square kilometres, a density of about 11,300 people per square kilometre.
Did you know that Tarawa atoll has a land area of about 31 square kilometres, a highest point of just 3 metres above sea level, and a lagoon of about 500 square kilometres that is open to the ocean.
Did you know that Banaba, the westernmost point of Kiribati, rises 81 metres, the country's highest point, yet phosphate mining reportedly stripped away 90 per cent of its surface between 1900 and 1979.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Wikipedia says Kiribati is expected to be the first country to lose all its land territory to climate change, with the IPCC projecting about 50 centimetres of sea-level rise by 2100.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Teraina has Washington Lake, described by Wikipedia as the only permanent freshwater lake in the whole of Kiribati, hidden within a coconut palm forest.
Research confidence: medium; the supplied research identifies partial support.
Did you know that Kanton is the only inhabited island of the Phoenix Islands, with 41 residents in 2020, and that it once hosted a Pan Am flying boat stop and a Mercury programme tracking station.
Did you know that in I-Kiribati tradition a sacred tree in Samoa called Kai-n-Tiku-Aba was broken by Koura-Abi, after which, as one retelling puts it, the people of Samoa scattered across the world.